许锋, 陈得科, 陈晓刚, 聂金梅, 马志浩, 孙恢礼, 陈忻. 坛紫菜防晒剂MAAs提取、 鉴定及在化妆品体系的稳定性研究[J]. 南方水产科学, 2022, 18(4): 156-162. DOI: 10.12131/20210244
引用本文: 许锋, 陈得科, 陈晓刚, 聂金梅, 马志浩, 孙恢礼, 陈忻. 坛紫菜防晒剂MAAs提取、 鉴定及在化妆品体系的稳定性研究[J]. 南方水产科学, 2022, 18(4): 156-162. DOI: 10.12131/20210244
XU Feng, CHEN Deke, CHEN Xiaogang, NIE Jinmei, MA Zhihao, SUN Huili, CHEN Xin. Study on extraction, identification and stability of UV resistant MAAs from Porphyra haitanensis in cosmetics system[J]. South China Fisheries Science, 2022, 18(4): 156-162. DOI: 10.12131/20210244
Citation: XU Feng, CHEN Deke, CHEN Xiaogang, NIE Jinmei, MA Zhihao, SUN Huili, CHEN Xin. Study on extraction, identification and stability of UV resistant MAAs from Porphyra haitanensis in cosmetics system[J]. South China Fisheries Science, 2022, 18(4): 156-162. DOI: 10.12131/20210244

坛紫菜防晒剂MAAs提取、 鉴定及在化妆品体系的稳定性研究

Study on extraction, identification and stability of UV resistant MAAs from Porphyra haitanensis in cosmetics system

  • 摘要: 以坛紫菜 (Porphyra haitanensis)为原料,提取抗紫外辐射物质类菌胞素氨基酸 (Mycosporine-like amino acids, MAAs),通过紫外可见光谱、液质联用对其进行表征,研究了化妆品体系中的各因素 (pH、光照、温度、防腐剂、抗氧化剂、功能性添加剂) 对MAAs化合物稳定性的影响。结果表明,坛紫菜中MAAs类化合物的种类为Shionrine和Porphyra-334;MAAs在pH 6的微酸环境中稳定性最高;紫外照射10 h能使溶液的吸光度下降94.4%;48 ℃高温放置56 d后吸光度下降了28.3%;48 ℃下添加小分子肽溶液的吸光度提高了82%,添加透明质酸溶液的吸光度提高了18.6%,能显著增强MAAs化合物的稳定性;其他常用防腐剂、抗氧化剂和功能性添加剂对MAAs的稳定性无明显影响。

     

    Abstract: Taking Porphyra haitanensis as raw material, we extracted the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and charaterized them by UV Vis spectroscopy and Liquid Chromatograph-Mass Spectrometer (LC-MS), so as to study the effects of various factors in the cosmetic system (pH, light, temperature, preservatives, antioxidants and functional additives) on the stability of MAAs. The results show that Shionrine and Porphyra-334 were the main MAAs in P. haitanensis. MAAs had the highest stability in the weak acid environment with pH=6. UV irradiation for 10 h could decrease the absorbance value by 94.4%. After having been placed at 48 ℃ for 56 d, its absorbance value decreased by 28.3%. At 48 ℃, the addition of small peptide and hyaluronic acid increased the absorbance value of the solution by 82% and 18.6%, respectively, which could improve the stability of MAAs compounds significantly. Other commonly used preservatives, antioxidants and functional additives had no significant effects on the stability of the MAAs.

     

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