坛紫菜防晒剂MAAs提取、 鉴定及在化妆品体系的稳定性研究

Study on extraction, identification and stability of UV resistant MAAs from Porphyra haitanensis in cosmetics system

  • 摘要: 以坛紫菜 (Porphyra haitanensis)为原料,提取抗紫外辐射物质类菌胞素氨基酸 (Mycosporine-like amino acids, MAAs),通过紫外可见光谱、液质联用对其进行表征,研究了化妆品体系中的各因素 (pH、光照、温度、防腐剂、抗氧化剂、功能性添加剂) 对MAAs化合物稳定性的影响。结果表明,坛紫菜中MAAs类化合物的种类为Shionrine和Porphyra-334;MAAs在pH 6的微酸环境中稳定性最高;紫外照射10 h能使溶液的吸光度下降94.4%;48 ℃高温放置56 d后吸光度下降了28.3%;48 ℃下添加小分子肽溶液的吸光度提高了82%,添加透明质酸溶液的吸光度提高了18.6%,能显著增强MAAs化合物的稳定性;其他常用防腐剂、抗氧化剂和功能性添加剂对MAAs的稳定性无明显影响。

     

    Abstract: Taking Porphyra haitanensis as raw material, we extracted the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and charaterized them by UV Vis spectroscopy and Liquid Chromatograph-Mass Spectrometer (LC-MS), so as to study the effects of various factors in the cosmetic system (pH, light, temperature, preservatives, antioxidants and functional additives) on the stability of MAAs. The results show that Shionrine and Porphyra-334 were the main MAAs in P. haitanensis. MAAs had the highest stability in the weak acid environment with pH=6. UV irradiation for 10 h could decrease the absorbance value by 94.4%. After having been placed at 48 ℃ for 56 d, its absorbance value decreased by 28.3%. At 48 ℃, the addition of small peptide and hyaluronic acid increased the absorbance value of the solution by 82% and 18.6%, respectively, which could improve the stability of MAAs compounds significantly. Other commonly used preservatives, antioxidants and functional additives had no significant effects on the stability of the MAAs.

     

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